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Free setup tool

MTB Tire Pressure
Calculator.

Dial in front and rear PSI for your mountain bike. Enter your weight, tire width, wheel size, setup and terrain to get a starting pressure and a safe working range.

Your setup
Recommended pressure
Front
19
psi · 1.31 bar
Rear
21
psi · 1.45 bar
Front working range 17 to 21 psi
Rear working range 19 to 23 psi
Total system weight 175 lb
Wet conditions 18 / 20 psi
Setup 29 x 2.4 tubeless

Results update as you type. Start here, then adjust 1 psi at a time. If the tire squirms in corners go up, if you are bouncing off roots go down.

The maths

How the calculator works

Tire pressure is really about how much air volume you have supporting how much weight. Wide tires hold far more air at the same pressure, which is why a 2.6 inch tire runs several psi lower than a 2.0 for the same rider.

Weight Total system weight (you, kit and pack) divided by tire width sets the base pressure. Heavier riders need proportionally more air.
Tire width Air volume grows fast with width. Going from 2.25 to 2.6 inches lets most riders drop 3 to 4 psi with no loss of protection.
Wheel size 29 inch wheels have more volume than 27.5 and 26, so they run 0.5 to 1 psi lower for the same tire width.
Setup A tube adds about 2.5 psi because pinch flats are the limit. A foam insert removes about 2 psi because the rim is protected.
Terrain & style Rocks, drops and hard cornering all raise the minimum safe pressure. Smooth flow trails let you run softer for grip.
Front vs rear The rear carries about 58% of the load and takes the worse hits, so it runs roughly 10% higher than the front.

Use a proper low-pressure digital gauge. Most floor pump gauges are wildly inaccurate below 30 psi, which is the whole range that matters on a mountain bike.

Want a printable tire pressure quick card?
A one-page pressure chart for the workshop wall, covering road, gravel and MTB, is coming soon to our shop.
FAQ

MTB tire pressure FAQ

Most trail riders on 29 x 2.4 inch tubeless tires land between 18 and 26 psi, with the rear 2 to 3 psi higher than the front. Narrower or tubed tires need more, wide plus-size tires need less. Rider weight is the single biggest factor, which is why a generic number on the sidewall is close to useless.

Your body weight sits behind the middle of the bike, so the rear tire carries roughly 55 to 60% of the total load. It also takes the harder hits when you cannot unweight it. Running the rear a couple of psi higher protects the rim, while keeping the front softer gives you the grip and confidence you want when cornering.

Lower pressure means a bigger contact patch, more grip and a smoother ride, up to a point. Go too low and the tire squirms in corners, burps air off the rim, and you start denting rims on rocks. The right pressure is the lowest you can run without those symptoms on your usual trails.

Tubeless typically lets you drop 2 to 4 psi compared with an inner tube, because there is no tube to pinch flat. Adding a foam insert like a Cushcore lets you go 2 psi lower again and protects the rim, which is why enduro and downhill racers run pressures in the mid teens.

Air pressure drops roughly 1 psi for every 10°C (18°F) fall in temperature, so a tire set in a warm garage will read low on a cold morning trailhead. Altitude matters less for the gauge reading but a long descent heats the tire and raises pressure. Always set pressure at the trailhead, not at home.

Yes, drop 1 to 2 psi in the wet. The lower pressure lets the tread conform to slick roots and rock, which buys real grip. Keep an eye on rim strikes, since wet trails often mean the same rocks are still there under the mud.

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